Part 20 - Reflections in Antananarivo

Part 20

"Well Paddington, that was Madagascar. Was it what you expected?"

The bear sat and looked out over the city of Antananarivo. They were back in the capital at the same hotel from which the adventure had started almost three weeks previously. Nothing much had changed in their absence apart from the weather which was now noticeably cooler. Paddington pulled his hat down further over his ears and tightened the coat around his waist. He had lost a little weight since being away, not through illness, just from a change in diet. There had definitely been no marmalade sandwiches in Madagascar but having sat and eaten with the locals and seen how the majority of people lived off very little, he felt that he couldn't really complain about the food.

After much thought the bear replied. "Not really," he said, "but then again I don't know what I was expecting to find. It was certainly very different to Peru. Perhaps I was hoping to see more wildlife, particularly birds and for it to have been a little warmer!"

"It has certainly been different Paddington." agreed Mr Smith. "Whilst we knew there was to be a lot of travelling involved we didn't realise just how tiring this was going to be. Up at six for two weeks and travelling until late, invariably getting to the hotel after dark. Being thrown around in a Transit was like being put through the 'wash-cycle' each day and it certainly took its toll on everyone in the party. I also don't think that we were prepared for what we saw. The country is in itself in a very poor state and this is reflected across the majority of people. I think it's fair to say that for those living out in the country life is very hard and at times shockingly brutal. Yet strangely they seem to be generally happier perhaps since most have stable work on the land. The bright lights of the city always attracts people with the lure of wealth and a better lifestyle but for Antananarivo it is more akin to a moth and flame. Those who have work or can find something to sell or transport, scrape by but there are too many who are destitute, particularly women with babies or older children supporting younger children. For them there is nothing apart from the aid provided by groups of nuns or from orphanages started by some foreigners. It's heart breaking especially when you hear of what use to happen not so long ago.

 

If nothing else we all now have a better level of understanding about the people, local customs (and taboos), country, flora and fauna then when we set off and hopefully some of it can be put to good use."

Footnote

I think that it is fair to say that all in the group were greatly touched by what they saw and experienced, both the sad scenes and the happy ones. All tried to help or make a difference in their own way or another and it was particularly uplifting to see the happiness on the children's and parents faces when members of the group spent time playing with them. Gifts of footballs were always greatly appreciated. Some gifts don't work. Sweets, pencils and money to individuals always cause problems, where as passing food or gifts to a head lady or mother generally resulted in a more peaceful event and was more appreciated. Trying to help one destitute mother and child by giving her money for food can almost result in a riot! Financial support for local orphanages etc is probably the best way to give money and we were warned by many not to give the money to priests etc as not all the money gets to where it should go. For what it's worth, my final suggestion is buy local handicrafts. It encourages the individual artist(s), the money goes direct to the source and helps puts the control of people's destiny back into their own hands.

This is probably not the tale you were expecting to hear. My apologies for that but too many things this trip have conspired against me. There was certainly a lot less 'free time' and I.T. definitely stood for Intermittent Technology. Ill health doesn't help creative writing and the material in many cases just wasn't there. However, I hope that you now have a better understanding of the country which is Madagascar. We certainly made many new friends along the way - although you won't see them appear on our Facebook 'Friends' listings!

Finally thanks to all our local guides, drivers, waiters, farmers etc for their patience and understanding in our total inability to speak Malagasy and for our terrible French - although we did try!

A bientot.

Part 19 - The Beach

Part 19 - The Beach

The Smiths were reclining contentedly on the beautiful white sand gazing out to sea. Paddington was deep in thought.

"Do you think I am 'beach ready'?" He eventually asked.

There followed sounds of coughing and choking from Mr Smith, but this was quickly resolved by a couple of sharp slaps on the back from his attentive wife. She'd always been most diligent with the application of medical care he thought, although it probably didn't require such 'diligence' to clear some water he'd been drinking.

"Why do you ask?" He eventually spluttered.

"Well I saw this advert on TV before we left where a rather impertinent lady asked if I was 'beach ready'. I'm not too sure what she was on about, or what it has to do with barbecues. And what's more, how many people have a pool in their garden anyway?"

Having spilt most of the drink down his front Mr Smith decided that now would be the ideal time to strip off his wet shirt and go for a swim. "I'll let Mrs Smith answer that Paddington." he said as he got up. "Over to you dear."

Ten minutes later Mr Smith returned to find a Paddington shaking his head. "You primates have some very strange behaviour traits." he said.

"Ah, don't include me in with them." Replied Mr Smith.

"No," said Paddington, "I don't suppose I should. You seem to be more of a sub species." And with that he walked off to see if he could find some intelligent life.

"Well you walked right into that one didn't you darling!" Commented Mrs Smith from behind her book.

 

The little group had set off for the Isle de Natts (Nosy Nato) to the south of Isle Saint Marie. After an adventurous and wet crossing in a dug-out canoe the party had explored the little island with Alban their guide before dining on Captain fish. During the morning Mr Smith had photographed various scenes, a white and black ruffed Sifakar as well as the guides extended family. Whilst many of the Malagasy have cheep Chinese import phones, non appear to have a camera function and so are really keen to see pictures of themselves.

After lunch, the final scene in what had been a long and busy adventure. Paddington and the Smiths spending a couple of hours on a isolated beach on a tropical island, looking out over a calm turquoise sea. And to cap it all, it was no longer raining!

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Paddington's fact for the day: The dug out canoe is still widely used throughout Isle Saint Marie and Madagascar. Unfortunatly there are no suitable trees on the island anymore so the canoes have to be imported from the mainland and transferred across.

Part 18 - Paddington meets the Lemurs

Part 18 Friday was to be a total wash out for the Smiths due to Mr Smith contracting something akin to gastric flue. The main tour group was slowly diminishing in size as individuals and couples made their way home or continued forward with with their own travel plans. Those who remained made the most of any bright weather to explore the island. One option undertaken by some was to hire bicycles and ride the 40+ Km to the end of the island. Whilst Mr Smith was feeling sufficiently recovered on Saturday to undertake a slow stroll into the main town, which was only about 4 kilometres away, it was thought best to hire a taxi for the day in order to explore the northern end. Inevitably the one road on Saint Marie was mostly in a very poor condition so the going was slow. This however did provide an opportunity to look at the scenery and people watch. Most on the island appear to be subsistence farmers who have a little seasonal tourist work thrown in so as to help buy the more commercial items like phones, bikes etc. Family connections and traditions are still paramount though and a very large village gathering had to be eased off the round at one point in order to let us pass.  Local semi-official 'guides' show people around the natural pools which provide safe places to swim. No shoe of any sort are allowed within the beach area and appeared to be one of the local taboos. Families and individuals own the land and this helps stop over exploitation, selling off to external businesses/countries and gives the people the incentive to keep the area clean. Various 'restaurants' provide simple meals and drinks and we dined on a meal of grilled Captain fish accompanied by a salad. Paddington did not go into the sea but Mrs Smith was more adventurous. Sunday was officially the last day of the tour and saw what was left of the party completely break up and go it's different ways. The Smiths moved to the Soanambo Hotel which means breadfruit in Malagasy. This hotel is nearer the airstrip and is of a higher standard. Mr Smith commented that at least the builders here had a tape measure and spirit level. As the level of decor and finish approaches that of your own home so it is easier to relax and unwind. The food in this French hotel was also at a better standard and refreshingly varied from that experienced during most of the last three weeks.   That afternoon the Smiths and Paddington visited a small wildlife menagerie which housed, tortoises, frogs snakes and lemurs. At last Paddington managed to get 'up close and personal' to one of Madagascar's famous primates. The black and white ruffed sifaka was not sure about the hat and it was marvellous to watch how the mother and baby responded to the arrival of the little bear on 'their branch'. Paddington sat still throughout it all and let them come closer. He wasn't so happy about the final taste test though!!

 

Part 17 - The Pirate Grave

Part 17 - The tomb of Joseph Pierre Lachartier

"Ahar me ship mates and shiver me timbers." said Paddington.

"Are you feeling cold," enquired Mr Smith trying to ignore the nasty looking sword in the bears hand. "And what's with the fancy costume?"

"We be Pirates we be." stated the bear "and we wants to see our brethren in the old pirate cemetery."

"Pet cemetery more likely." Muttered Mr Smith. "You probably also need a training day looking at the way you're flaying around with that wooden sword. I'm surprised you haven't cut yourself with it yet, or given yourself a close shave."

Paddington stopped practicing his swashbuckling technique and glared at Mr Smith. Unfortunately the eye patch severely limited the overall effect and Mr Smith was left to grin at the poor bear's predicament. "It's a safety sword." Retorted Paddington, "that's why it's called a cut-less!"

"Touché, mon ami. Your tongue is more nibble then your sword and for that quick repost we shall visit the cemetery this very morning on our way into town."

Thursday morning, or in fact the whole day, was not suitable for ambling around since, as predicted, the weather had turned inclement. Well that was the polite 'British' way of putting it. Later that evening it didn't so much as rain as 'pour'. It was as if the gods had left the 'rose' off their watering cans as the water came down in one solid lump. Fortunately everyone was inside at the time otherwise they might not have been able to breath from fear of drowning.

As it was when the small party set out in a 'tuc-tuc' it was only a gentle shower and this managed to blow over five minutes before they arrived at the cemetery. To label it as a Pirates Graveyard might be stretching the truth someone but it certainly drew in the tourists by the ones and twos. The place isn't half the site it use to be though - literally. Back in 1998 there was a severe cyclone which caused half of the peninsular to drop into the bay taking many of the graves with it. Of the current tomb stones only one now bares the skull and crossbones motif. The remaining graves are to sailors, wife's and assorted others.

The graveyard peninsular points towards a small island that lies within a shallow bay next to the main town. It was on this secure island that the Pirates had their base, but it was not safe! Who would have thought that the French Pirates who inhabited this island would fall prey to a tiny insect which would eventually wipe them out by the late 1800's. Malaria was going strong even back then.

 

Paddington's fact for the day: European Pirates started to move to Madagascar when life in the Caribbean started to become uncomfortable. An earthquake at Port Royal in 1692 had decimated their community and they were being driven from Tortuga and other strongholds. Captain Kidd and other infamous British corsairs visit Madagascar and became Kings of their own areas but non settled on Isle Saint Marie.

 

Part 16 - The final push

Part 16 "Hey Paddington," called Mr Smith, "don't make yourself too comfortable tonight will you!" Paddington and the Smiths had arrived at the major port of Toamasina on the eastern seaboard of Madagascar after a five hour journey. Both countryside and people had changed noticeably since leaving the Andasibe. Farming was now concentrated on fruit and the people had different facial features from those in the south and there was had a higher Muslim influence. One quick stop was taken at a busy small town where the quality of the fruit (Rambutans, Sharon fruit, custard apples, Jack Fruit) was superior to anything seen before. The principle method of moving stores, the four wheeled kart, had also gone through another design iteration. Mr Smith maintained you would be able to tell which part of the country you were in just by looking at how they moved their produce as each region had a unique variation on the theme. The hotel at the port provided a welcome rest and at a comfortable standard, if but for a very short period. Revelee was sounded at 0500, courtesy of Samsung's 'Morning Glory' ring tone. This was one sound the group was all starting to hate as it was used both as a wake up call and reminder to take anti-Malaria tablets in the evening. The last drive north to Soanierana-Ivongo was to be the worst yet as the road was particularly bad and so the going was slow. Those in the rear seats caught quite a bit of 'air-time' which didn't help Mr Smith's back who maintained that the level of civilisation reached by a country could be measured by the thickness of tarmac used. In this instance about the thickness of a fag paper! The small port was reached at 1030 and there was just enough time to grab a drink and find the loo before boarding the ferry. The small motor launch carried about 25-30 people plus luggage, stores etc but had no facilities onboard. Large items were strapped to the top of the wheelhouse roof.  At 1100hrs on a hot and sunny afternoon the boat left the wharf and headed down the river towards the sea. If  you are ever on a boat heading out to sea and the course of the river you are travelling along is parallel to the sea shore then it is a good idea to ensure that life jackets are provided and all of your affairs are in order! When the river eventually reaches the sea then there is usually a spit of sand to get over but the boat you are in is travelling parallel to the waves as you try to cross it. The current/wave action can then make for a very interesting few moments. Fortunately we were heading out and the sea was very benign. However, a boat which had been coming in earlier that morning had not been so lucky and had foundered earlier that morning. As we passed by we observed the passengers(?) attempting to rescue their belongings!  The remaining 25Km crossing to Ambodifotatra on Isle Saint Marie passed without incident. The Vanivola hotel was clean and welcoming but devoid of other guests. The high season for the island starts in July which coincides with the arrival of the humpback whales who come here to calf. Despite this event being over a month away it didn't stop Mrs Smith from enquiringly hopefully if any had been seen yet!  "No female is ever that early." Commented Mr Smith.

         

      

 

   

         

Part 15 - The road North

Part 15 After the visit to the paddy fields and the village the tour had continued heading north with most of each day spent watching the ever changing scenery. The next overnight stop was taken at Antsirabe. Here the party stayed at a hotel which was connected with a Malagasy orphanage. Revenue raised by the hotel went towards helping the children through schooling and then towards preparing them for the 'outside' world. The following day there was a brief visit to a reptile park. Madagascar has over eighty species of chameleon and Paddington and the Smiths  managed to get up close to a number of different species. Whilst their movements are normally very slow they soon find a second gear when an iPhone or similar is thrust in their face! They also change colour to black, indicating their annoyance which is in itself a good self defence mechanism as nobody wants to photograph a black chameleon. The following day the party moved further up country and stopped at a hotel near Andasibe National Park. Whilst a small swimming pool was available the party never had the chance to use it as the program was soon to change. The early morning start saw the group enter the local national park however, even on the approach they had could hear the mournful call of the Indri. This is the largest existing species of lemur (although severely threatened) and has one of the loudest calls in the animal kingdom. It is a haunting cry, once heard, never forgotten. Inside the park our two guides were excellent and found us three new species of lemur; Common, Diadem, and Indri of which the Diadem was the most colourful.   The afternoon was to have been spent in and around the National Park but the tour guide had heard that the ferry boat to Isle Saint Marie was likely to be stopped due to bad weather. It was therefore decided to cut the tour short and dash up to Soanierana-Ivongo on the coast from where the ferry boat would be taken to the island on Wednesday. 

Part 14 - The Village

Part 14

La Riziere Hotel in Fianarantsoa was a trading establishment designed to grow the next generation of hotel clerks, cooks, chamber maids etc so the overall standard of the place was very high compared with the recent establishments. Certainly no luxury's though so Paddington was unable to catch up with any TV news, go for a swim nor dry his fur with a hair dryer - not that he thought for one moment he needed a shower. Whilst Mrs Smith and the bear had a quiet morning Mr Smith ventured out with the group to inspect the old town (one of the Worlds 100 endangered historical sites. After a brief guided tour the rest of the morning was spent walking into the valley and across the paddy fields to a small village where lunch was taken.

Sat around the wall of an upstairs room on little stuffed poofes the group were introduced to the senior lady who had organised the meal. Table cloths of woven reads were then laid out and the bowls and cutlery added. Bruno our guide warned us that this was the table so no feet to be placed on the mats! Lunch consisted of rice, pork and spinach and a tomato and onion salsa. Whilst each person had been given their own large bowl of rice we were informed that we could discard some into a large central bowl before adding any meet or sauce. In this way over 60% was retuned for later use by the families. The meal was excellent particularly after the long walk, and was enjoyed by all.

After the meal there was an opportunity to view the upstairs kitchen which also served as the sleeping area for the children as it was warm. The grown-ups slept in the other room. The attached pictures shown what it was like although the flash makes it appear much brighter than it was in reality. After games with the children it was then back across the fields to the waiting bus and a trip into town for some staples.An unusual but most enjoyable day.

 

Paddington's fact for the day: Malagasy people have an afro-asian origin which has led to a complicated system of beliefs and customs. This includes a widespread belief in the power of ancestors - razama. Fady are the dictates of the razama and can include such 'taboos' or instructions as: Don't sing whilst you are eating as it makes your teeth longer, you cannot pass an egg to a person directly, it must first be placed on the ground first and a spade used to dig a grave must have a loose handle as it is dangerous to have too firm a link between the living and the dead!

 

 

 

Part 12 - A Surprise Birthday

 

Part 12

Thursday broke warm and sunny so the group heading of for about a sixteen kilometre walk. Paddington's legs were too short for the steep bits and so rode in the rucksack. At times the paths were so steep Mrs Smith would willingly have traded places. The view from the top of the Isalo Massife over the plane was stunning as were the sandstone rock formations. It was a hot, hard walk up and down the hills before arriving at a riverside picnic spot for lunch. The added bonus was the three species of lemur including the iconic Ring-tail lemur which inhabited the area. The white sifaka or 'dancing' lemur was present but wouldn't come down from the trees and do a turn. However, the red fronted brown lemur had no such qualms and took the opportunity to steal bread and other delicacies when people were busy taking pictures. Paddington and the smiths found a quiet spot by the river to eat their sandwiches and re-hydrate. Unfortunately for the bear there were no straws and he almost got crushed by Mr Smith's Sprite bottle when he attempted to steal a sneaky drink.

After lunch there was a quick jaunt up to a pool for a quick cooling dip in the river. The water was freezing but refreshing. Pity that all were hot and sweaty by the time we had returned to camp.

That evening there was a surprise for Mrs Smith as the guide had arranged a band from the village for her birthday and we were instructed how to dance Malagasy style. The group had also bought a cake which complemented the pork curry beautifully. It was a very special evening and greatly enjoyed by all.

Paddington's fact for the day. If a boy dies before he is circumcised, around the age of two, he is not buried with the family but considered to be 'water' (passing through life). The same applies for girls who receive bamboo piercings in the ears at about the same age. If you are lucky, male circumcision is carried out surgically, if not then it is performed using a sharpened bamboo knife! The skin (or any part removed from the body) cannot be buried before the person dies so some tribes fire the piece of skin from a gun. In other tribes the grandfather of the child eats it with some banana. Bon appetite!

   

   

 

 

 

Part 13 - The Sapphire Mine

Part 13  Unfortunately Friday was to be another early start with the group leaving the hotel at 0630 and without breakfast! "Well," said Paddington as the Smiths dragged themselves out of bed the next morning, "you both certainly liked to "Move it' last night!" The Smiths were feeling a little stiff from the previous day's hike and impromptu birthday party and were probably not at their best whilst being denied their first cup of coffee. The warming suns rays helped to breath some life into them which was probably for the best as the first stop of the day was at the worlds largest sapphire mining area. Here the Malagasy men dig down between fifteen and twenty five meters in order to reach the old river bed containing the gem laden aggregate. Some of the tour group gamely volunteered to lend a hand for five minutes, although the hardest part was getting into and out of the pit. The spades were so worn down from all the use that Mr Smith was heard to comment that shifting the sand up out of the pit was easier then digging the garden at home. However, Mrs Smith reminded him that he had never had to dig the garden for eight straight hours!  The biggest shock to Mr Smith's system came soon after when the group visited a gem store as Mrs Smith was still owed a birthday present! After a late breakfast the group spent the day heading north again, stopping at a small village to eat a picnic lunch and watch some boys threshing rice. Later a private reserve was visited in order to see more ring-tailed lemurs. Here Paddington travelled in a sling across Mrs Smith's back as he didn't fancy the look of the forest floor. It was a good job too as there were snakes about! Whilst there are no venomous ones in Madagascar the three foot constrictor would have given the small bear a hard time.  "Best to let Mrs Smith dance around" he thought, "and watch from a safe distance!" The one photographed was only a foot long but was not keen to be picked up by Mr Smith and made it obviously clear. At least the lemurs were far more approachable.     Paddington's fact for the day: Machinery is not allowed when digging the sapphire mine pits so the work is all carried out by hand. Some thirty men spend eight months digging each pit at 10,000 Ariary per day each (£2.30). This equates to about £17K, probably cheaper than using modern machinery!

Part 11 - Artisans

Part 11 Wednesday was another long distance driving day although stops were made at a cattle market, artisan paper making place and a blacksmiths forge which specialised in making spades for the paddy fields. In fact the village made nothing else but spades with each furnace expected to churn out thirty plus a day. What was also interesting was that the spade shape remained the same despite some stores selling a range of sizes and shapes, but that must be demarcation for you. The first stop of the day was in Fianarantsoa where there was a nice pastry shop which was much appreciated as it also had good coffee. Various other towns were past on the way to Isalo National Park in the south of the country. On the way the terrain changed from highland rain forests to undulating hills and then wide open plains. Much to everyone's delight the sun also came out and the temperature rose. Of particular note was the change in style of the houses. In the highlands each home was a two or three storey affair and as the family's wealth increased so the house was extended with extra room and balconies.     Paddington's fact for the day: The kitchen is located on the top floor directly under the roof! Why you might ask? Well the smoke from the cooking fire helps to fumigate the thatch and keeps the insects at bay. It is common to see women and children leaning out of the window watching the world going by, and probably getting a breath of fresh air.   Houses require 30,000 bricks and cost the equivalent of 1.5 Million Ariary (£350).

Part 10 - Of Lemurs and men

Part 10 It was midday Tuesday and the Smiths had just trudged back to the hotel after a morning spent in a cloud forest. "How was your morning?" Asked Paddington, "did you see any Lemurs?" "Yes thank you Paddington." replied Mrs Smith and flaked out on the bed. "Well?" Replied the bear, "what type?" "Wet ones," replied Mr Smith, "wet golden bamboo lemurs, wet red-fronted brown lemurs, wet black and white ruffed lemurs and A.N.Other which was hard to identify because it was so wet! If  you had come with us then you will have seen them."  Paddington had decided not to attend the early morning walk because of the weather. This was due to him forgetting to pack wellingtons and a raincoat again. He also refused to wear any more of Mr Smith's hand made ponchos.  In fact from the sound of it the Smiths had repeated a similar walk to that undertaken in the Amazon rain-forrest the previous year, except for one fact. This time there had been leeches! The very thought made Paddington's fur crawl. When the party had reached a viewing point the guide had asked them to check that they hadn't picked up any guests. Most people had some on their boots and raincoats but Mr Smith had taken one on the chin for the group - literally. Unfortunately he was also not allowed to remove it until it had been photographed from every possible angle by those present. "Never mind," said Paddington "perhaps it will brighter this afternoon." It wasn't. While Mrs Smith took the opportunity to rest Mr Smith went on the shorter two hour walk. Unfortunately during this period the rain really set it. None of the other 101+ other species of lemur were seen but some nice group shots were taken of two of the types seen that morning.    In the early evening there was a further walk along a road to find chameleons and the elusive nocturnal mouse lemur. Both were seen but the latter was not photographed by Mr Smith.

Part 9 - The Zebu Rustler

Part 9 The second day out, moving from Antsirabe to Ranaomafana had started out well with a short nature walk. As we got back to the bus some locals were discussing a Zebu rustler who had been caught. At the time we had all had a bit of a laugh as Bruno our guide pronounced it 'wrestler'. As we came to the next village we drove past the man, dead on the side of the road as he had been shot by the police. Not something we had expected to see close up early in the morning! Fortunately the rest of the day got better. The group visited a a local market where Mr Smith started a bit of a scrum by by buying some lollipops at one stall and then trying to give them to the children. Some of the kids with their hands out must have been over 70 years old! Eventually the sweets had to be handed over to an old lady to distribute so as to install some order. Paddington just kept his head down during this encounter. After the market there was a visit to a small village where we had a silk weaving demonstration followed by a meal cooked by the ladies. This consisted of rice, chick-peas and chicken with rice water to drink. Mr Smith likened the later to drinking the water you used to wash up the rice saucepan after the burnt rice had been scraped off. After lunch one of the ladies taught the children how to play blind-mans-buff using an eye mask from the flight and this was followed by farmyard volleyball using a blow-up ball provided by one of the guys.    Overall the day ended on a high, despite the long bus journey and reality check earlier that morning.