Sunday, 22 May 2016
Part 16 - The final push
Part 16
"Hey Paddington," called Mr Smith, "don't make yourself too comfortable tonight will you!"
Paddington and the Smiths had arrived at the major port of Toamasina on the eastern seaboard of Madagascar after a five hour journey. Both countryside and people had changed noticeably since leaving the Andasibe. Farming was now concentrated on fruit and the people had different facial features from those in the south and there was had a higher Muslim influence. One quick stop was taken at a busy small town where the quality of the fruit (Rambutans, Sharon fruit, custard apples, Jack Fruit) was superior to anything seen before. The principle method of moving stores, the four wheeled kart, had also gone through another design iteration. Mr Smith maintained you would be able to tell which part of the country you were in just by looking at how they moved their produce as each region had a unique variation on the theme.
The hotel at the port provided a welcome rest and at a comfortable standard, if but for a very short period. Revelee was sounded at 0500, courtesy of Samsung's 'Morning Glory' ring tone. This was one sound the group was all starting to hate as it was used both as a wake up call and reminder to take anti-Malaria tablets in the evening.
The last drive north to Soanierana-Ivongo was to be the worst yet as the road was particularly bad and so the going was slow. Those in the rear seats caught quite a bit of 'air-time' which didn't help Mr Smith's back who maintained that the level of civilisation reached by a country could be measured by the thickness of tarmac used. In this instance about the thickness of a fag paper! The small port was reached at 1030 and there was just enough time to grab a drink and find the loo before boarding the ferry. The small motor launch carried about 25-30 people plus luggage, stores etc but had no facilities onboard. Large items were strapped to the top of the wheelhouse roof.
At 1100hrs on a hot and sunny afternoon the boat left the wharf and headed down the river towards the sea. If you are ever on a boat heading out to sea and the course of the river you are travelling along is parallel to the sea shore then it is a good idea to ensure that life jackets are provided and all of your affairs are in order! When the river eventually reaches the sea then there is usually a spit of sand to get over but the boat you are in is travelling parallel to the waves as you try to cross it. The current/wave action can then make for a very interesting few moments. Fortunately we were heading out and the sea was very benign. However, a boat which had been coming in earlier that morning had not been so lucky and had foundered earlier that morning. As we passed by we observed the passengers(?) attempting to rescue their belongings!
The remaining 25Km crossing to Ambodifotatra on Isle Saint Marie passed without incident. The Vanivola hotel was clean and welcoming but devoid of other guests. The high season for the island starts in July which coincides with the arrival of the humpback whales who come here to calf. Despite this event being over a month away it didn't stop Mrs Smith from enquiringly hopefully if any had been seen yet!
"No female is ever that early." Commented Mr Smith.
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