Part 20 - Reflections in Antananarivo

Part 20

"Well Paddington, that was Madagascar. Was it what you expected?"

The bear sat and looked out over the city of Antananarivo. They were back in the capital at the same hotel from which the adventure had started almost three weeks previously. Nothing much had changed in their absence apart from the weather which was now noticeably cooler. Paddington pulled his hat down further over his ears and tightened the coat around his waist. He had lost a little weight since being away, not through illness, just from a change in diet. There had definitely been no marmalade sandwiches in Madagascar but having sat and eaten with the locals and seen how the majority of people lived off very little, he felt that he couldn't really complain about the food.

After much thought the bear replied. "Not really," he said, "but then again I don't know what I was expecting to find. It was certainly very different to Peru. Perhaps I was hoping to see more wildlife, particularly birds and for it to have been a little warmer!"

"It has certainly been different Paddington." agreed Mr Smith. "Whilst we knew there was to be a lot of travelling involved we didn't realise just how tiring this was going to be. Up at six for two weeks and travelling until late, invariably getting to the hotel after dark. Being thrown around in a Transit was like being put through the 'wash-cycle' each day and it certainly took its toll on everyone in the party. I also don't think that we were prepared for what we saw. The country is in itself in a very poor state and this is reflected across the majority of people. I think it's fair to say that for those living out in the country life is very hard and at times shockingly brutal. Yet strangely they seem to be generally happier perhaps since most have stable work on the land. The bright lights of the city always attracts people with the lure of wealth and a better lifestyle but for Antananarivo it is more akin to a moth and flame. Those who have work or can find something to sell or transport, scrape by but there are too many who are destitute, particularly women with babies or older children supporting younger children. For them there is nothing apart from the aid provided by groups of nuns or from orphanages started by some foreigners. It's heart breaking especially when you hear of what use to happen not so long ago.

 

If nothing else we all now have a better level of understanding about the people, local customs (and taboos), country, flora and fauna then when we set off and hopefully some of it can be put to good use."

Footnote

I think that it is fair to say that all in the group were greatly touched by what they saw and experienced, both the sad scenes and the happy ones. All tried to help or make a difference in their own way or another and it was particularly uplifting to see the happiness on the children's and parents faces when members of the group spent time playing with them. Gifts of footballs were always greatly appreciated. Some gifts don't work. Sweets, pencils and money to individuals always cause problems, where as passing food or gifts to a head lady or mother generally resulted in a more peaceful event and was more appreciated. Trying to help one destitute mother and child by giving her money for food can almost result in a riot! Financial support for local orphanages etc is probably the best way to give money and we were warned by many not to give the money to priests etc as not all the money gets to where it should go. For what it's worth, my final suggestion is buy local handicrafts. It encourages the individual artist(s), the money goes direct to the source and helps puts the control of people's destiny back into their own hands.

This is probably not the tale you were expecting to hear. My apologies for that but too many things this trip have conspired against me. There was certainly a lot less 'free time' and I.T. definitely stood for Intermittent Technology. Ill health doesn't help creative writing and the material in many cases just wasn't there. However, I hope that you now have a better understanding of the country which is Madagascar. We certainly made many new friends along the way - although you won't see them appear on our Facebook 'Friends' listings!

Finally thanks to all our local guides, drivers, waiters, farmers etc for their patience and understanding in our total inability to speak Malagasy and for our terrible French - although we did try!

A bientot.