Part 8 - The first day on the trail

Paddington and the Smiths were happy to leave Antananarivo (town or city of a thousand warriors) and head off on the Madagascan venture today (Sunday). There was to be a lot of travelling in a 14 seat Transit mini-bus each day though and this first day saw 5 bum-numbing hours. Fortunately there were plenty of stops for water, sight seeing and seeing what lay behind some of the roadside vegetation! Fortunately all the ladies seemed to cope well with this arrangement and at times in was more preferable to to village conveniences. As with most very poor counties the locals make souvenirs out of anything they can lay their hands on so wood and old tin cans feature heavily in the arts and crafts section along with more traditional ware.  The fruit market was an interesting shopping experience and whilst Mrs Smith made her selection the little bear decides to play 'Where's Paddington' amongst the fruit. This certainly amused the locals but confused a little girl when to whom he was later introduced. 

Paddington hides amongst the veg.

A very confused young lady

Antsirabe rickshaw ride

After a quick rickshaw ride around Antsirabe the party headed for the first hotel. Compact and bijou is the best way to describe the room but we were lucky, we had a window!!  An early early night was needed after all the excitement since it would be yet another early start in the morning - sleep was optional.

 

Part 7 - Around Antananarivo

Part 7 - Antananarivo Part 7 

Part 7

Antananarivo is a very poor city, probably on a par with many in mainland Africa Which is not surprising since Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in the world. The French controlled the island for about 80 years up until 1960, but their only real legacy appears to be the language. Some buildings have a sudo colonial style to them but the place is generally in a very rundown condition. This was probably as a result of the political unrest in 2002 and 2009 which has seriously affected the local economy to this date. Even tourism is not quite back to the levels the country use to enjoy pre 2002.

On a more positive note the people on the whole are very pleasant but generally shy.

Whilst out walking on Friday we passed many street stalls and markets which the locals tend to use as there are only a few shops and aimed at the higher end market or tourists. The aroma of this humid city is generally not pleasant and apart from the human 'input' there is also the added attraction of fish and meat stalls. Oysters and clams appear popular but Westerners are best advised to avoid them, no matter what letter is in the month! The odour around 'clam corner' as Mrs Smith referred to it, was particularly overpowering in the heat!

With all the warnings about what to avoid eating you would think that one would soon starve however, there are some good local restaurants in town and Chez Sucett's served some really nice duck. Mrs Smith tried the duck with vanilla bourbon sauce whilst Mr Smith had the duck Creole style with olives. The food and service were excellent and we revisited the restaurant the following evening.

The photos below include street scenes an a very Parisian gentleman seen in a pastry shop in the middle of the town.

 

 

 

Part 6 - Arrival Madagascar

  Part 6 Paddington lay back and reflected on the past 24 hours as he munched on a macaroon which he had liberated from the airport in Paris. The flight had been relatively uneventful, though. somewhat disorganised. After the main meal it then appeared to deteriorate into something of a free-for-all later in the flight as passengers raided the galley areas for sandwiches, drinks and ice creams! The Boeing 777-300 had been full with well over 300 people onboard so there was no room to stretch-out and relax although some napping was possible.  The airport at Antananarivo was similar to others experienced in mainland Africa with long queues for passport control. Mr Smith reckoned that their passports were examined and passed through eight different pairs of hands as Visas were added, signed, inspected, checked and eventually waved through.    The hotel Belvedere was arrived at in the early morning (0130hrs), thanks to our driver Thierry who eventually found us. As usual with these holidays the deletes of the hotel are not fully appreciated until after sunrise when you get to see what the place has to offer. In this case, very little although the room was clean and comfortable. Breakfast was a meagre repast of coffee, fruit juice and an omelette. Rested and fortified the Smiths headed out to experience the sights, sounds and smells of the city.

 

Part 5 - Lacta alea est.

"Well that wasn't too painful was it?" Mr & Mrs Smith, along with a carefully concealed Paddington had just successfully negotiated 'check-in' and security. "Lacta alea est, as they say in Rome." Added Mr Smith for effect.  "I think 'Nunc est bibendum' would be more appropriate" replied Paddington. Mr Smith was astonished, he had never heard him speaking Latin before.  "Well done," he complimented Paddington, "but don't you think three o'clock in the morning is a little early to be drinking?" "Not if you have an aversion to flying." The bear replied. "I still feel mentally scared after last year's experience." "I have some medication which might help." Chipped in Mrs Smith. "Would you like to try some of that as well?" "As well?" Spluttered Mr Smith. "Drugs AND alcohol? This will give a whole new meaning to the 'Mile High Club'. Make sure that he doesn't start singing otherwise the next thing we'll know he'll be trying to throw the video screen out the window!"   As it happened the airline did not serve alcohol at seven in there morning and since Paddington had had so little sleep the night before he was curled up and fast asleep before the aircraft had even left the departure gate. 

By the time they had got to Paris, Paddington was starting to suffer from Marmalade withdrawal symptoms. He needed sugar fast and the tempting tower of macaroons was now in serious jeopardy. Mrs Smith had found some pretty swanky Duty Free shops and having left Mr Smith to guard the bags, nobody was watching the bear!

 

Part 4 - Final Preparations

It was a couple of days later and with the the packing completed the Smiths were making final preparations for their departure very early next morning. Mrs Smith found her husband in the kitchen tidying up. "I see Paddington is making a nest for himself." she said. "Den," corrected Mr Smith, "bears don't make nests."  

Paddington makes a few small adjustments.

  "Nest, den, whatever, he's making it in your camera bag." She replied and went off to check if the cat had managed to let herself out. It had taken an aversion to the new cat flap and now expected others to open it for her. "Too posh to push" she thought. Mr Smith hurried into the Hall. "Ah, Mr Smith. I'm just making a few adjustments, do you have a spare cushion? If I am to travel in your camera bag again then I don't want to sleep on all of this lumpy equipment. There is to be nothing that rattles and no DEET wrist bands. It took me ages to get rid of that awful smell from my coat last time so I am not sleeping next to them again". Mr Smith surveyed the devastation and took a couple of deep breaths. "I will pack the wrist bands elsewhere Paddington, but for your part there are to be no marmalade sandwiches in the bag. I had to clean your sticky paw prints off all the equipment and vacuum out the breadcrumbs once you had left. And woe betide you if their is any damage to that new lens. It cost more than I would ever get for your coat!' "Oh, I don't think you would get much for this old Dufflecoat Mr Smith." Paddington replied.    "I didn't mean that coat." Said Mr Smith and started to gather up the loose items. "Now if we want to stand any chance of getting to Madagascar tomorrow and possibly meeting King Julien then I suggest that we Move It!"

 

Part 3 - The secret of the suitcase

Part 3 The secret of the suitcase

 

"That's rather a dapper suitcase Paddington" said Mrs Smith. "Where did you find it? "I had it especially made for this trip" replied the bear. "Do you like it? I can have one made for you if you like." Mrs Smith wasn't too sure if she was ready for 'brown' luggage yet or if indeed she would be able to fit anything inside. Poor old Paddington seemed so proud of it though, so not wanting to hurt his feelings she quickly changed the subject,  "Are you freelancing for the government?" She asked. "It's just that your case has OHMS on the outside" Paddington had been waiting for somebody to notice this and replied with a wide grin. "It stands for 'Only Holds My Sandwiches'." And with a flourish he opened the case.

The secret of the suitcase

Mr Smith put his head in his hands and groaned. "Haven't heard that one before." He muttered, but then a thought struck him. "Or in your case Paddington," he said. "It could stand for, Only Holds Marmalade Sandwiches!" Paddington gave Mr Smith one of his long hard stares, he should of thought of that one himself. This competition was now getting serious but he was blowed if he was not going to give Mr Smith the satisfaction of getting one over on him, or the point.  Mrs Smith looked at the pair of them. "Play nicely now boys," she chided, but there was no response. Each was starring intently at the other. Mrs Smith sighed. "I'll go and make some tea shall I?" And with that she got up and went out into the kitchen, quickly followed by a streak of fur. "About bloody time", thought the cat. "Its way past 4 o'clock. My stomach was starting to wonder whether my throat had been cut!" Mr Smith winced and rubbed his legs. The cat's running spikes had left their usual mark. One of these days he was going to have to get the cats claws trimmed and he wouldn't need a vet either. He had a nice pair of shears out in the shed!   "Well now," said Paddington, "Perhaps you could show me to my room please. The one at the rear of the house if you mind, it has a much nicer view." "What do you expect to see out of a suburban bedroom window?" asked a shocked Mr Smith. "The Hanging Gardens of Babylon? I expect you'll be wanting a bath as well." An evil glint had appeared in Mr Smith's eyes. "Perhaps I can run you a nice deep one!"  "I'll just have a quick splash in the sink if it's all the same to you." Paddington replied and quickly trotted off up the stairs.    

Part 2 - A Cheeky Bear

Part 2

  

“Not much of a suitcase is it,” exclaimed Mr Smith. “It's not big enough to hold a pair of underpants.” Now during their Peruvian Adventure together Paddington had sometimes felt that he had come off decidedly worse when holding a conversation with Mr Smith.  Upon his return home he had  discussed the problem with his old friend Mr Grubber and sought his advice upon the matter. As a man of the world and a watcher of people Mr Grubber had quickly realised what had been happening. “You will need to improve your witty repartee and understand the basics of how to use the double-entendre,” he'd explained. It all sounded a little foreign to the bear but he was happy to give it a go, if only to get one back at Mr Smith. Staying up late at night, he watched back to back re-runs of Monty Python, The Two Ronnies and any other early comedy series he could find. Rising somewhat later than normal in the morning he would then return to see Mr Grubber where, over tea and marmalade sandwiches he polish his linguistic jousting skills. Now, stood before Mr Smith with a cheeky grin spreading across his face he quipped. “I don't need underwear Mr Smith. You see, the clue is in my name." Mr Smith's eyes widened and he gave an imperceptible nod before replying “I think that's spelt BARE, Paddington, but a good try.” Opening the door a little wider he invited him in. “Who is that with you,” called Mrs Smith.  "I've got a cheeky bear behind," he replied entering the living room. "I know," said Mrs Smith, "but it's not polite to go on about it in front of guests." "It is the guest, smiled Mr Smith. Much to the delight of Mrs Smith Paddington entered the room and climbed onto the sofa to greet her. Making himself comfortable on the warm spot left by the cat he then chatted away explaining what he had been up to since they last met and what they might see on their next adventure together. Mr Smith sat himself down in the armchair opposite whilst the cat, seeing the Smiths had settled again, jumped onto the newly available lap. At first sight of the bear Mr Smith had been a little shocked and perhaps even dismayed to see Paddington again, particularly after the difficulty in getting him through airport security the previous year. But now as he watched the bear chat to Mrs Smith his mood began to mellow. He thought of all the fun he had had last with the little fellow last time and the opportunities which might now lay ahead. The bear certainly seemed to have picked up a few new tricks since last year so he was certainly going to have to play it carefully. Paddington glanced across at Mr Smith and noted the faint smile spreading across his face. Honours were about even he thought, not bad for a bear who was new to this game. This was going to be a very interesting three weeks.